Experience the resilient heart of Hong Kong in the vibrant streets of Bonham Strand West, known locally as Nam Pak Hong (南北行) street. This historic district, once a devastated area, has blossomed into a thriving 180-year-old hub, pulsating with life and commerce, selling everything from dried seafood to Chinese medicine and groceries. A leisurely stroll through these streets will transport you back in time, painting a vivid picture of the bustling trade center that once laid the foundation for Hong Kong's economic development.

Named after George Bonham, the 4th Governor of Hong Kong who spearheaded its reconstruction after a devastating fire, Bonham Strand West extends eastward to Queen’s Road Central. Its alternative name, Nam Pak Hong (南北行), hints at its rich commercial history - "Nam" (南) referring to South East Asian countries, and "Pak" (北) to China. This lively marketplace drew businessmen from all corners of the globe, especially China, from the late 19th to the early 20th century, becoming a key source of revenue for the colonial government.

It attracted lots of businessmen from overseas to visit, especially the Chinese. The growth was at its peak from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, and the colonial government gained huge economic benefits as 90% of its tax revenue came from the trades with Chinese. The locals were also smart enough to set up banks providing financial services like currency exchange and loans for the international businessmen. Little do you know the commercial properties near Nam Pak Hong was even more expensive than that of Central at the time! The situation, however, turned upside down after the UN imposed a trade embargo on China in the 1950s, where the Nam Pak Hong businesses hit rock bottom. Many small banks were also gradually taken over by global banking, amidst the city’s transition to an international finance center. There was no way out to recover other than a shift in their business models, from initially selling dried food, spices and daily necessities, to now selling fancy dried seafood, shark fins , and rare Chinese medicine herbs. The expensive deer antler and cordyceps might look bizarre, and the shark fins are surly inhumane - but it is hard to deny the fact that these goods have saved Nam Pak Hong from the unknowns.

Try not to miss out the century-old brand Pak Cheong Hong (百昌行) on Bonham Strand West – a three-storey building with distinctively ornate signboards and couplets inscribed with golden Chinese characters at the entrance, which is living witness of the Nam Pak Hong's changes. You can tell what the business mainly sells from the couplets: pearl powder, camphor, ginseng, deer antler and cinnamon. If you look for souvenirs to bring home, their Macaque Calculus Powder with a beautiful vintage packaging is a great one to please your friends, which is meant for soothing people from nightmares.